Discussion in 'Suzuki' started by Moto7man, Mar 16, 2018.
Dual Actuated front brake
I laced up the front and rear hubs with new Excel rims and Buchanan spokes.I had called the Excel USA tech guys and they were very helpful giving me the correct part numbers. The front rim is Excel ICG408 21 x 1.60 x 36 Hole and the rear rim is Excel FEG410 18 x 2.15 36 hole. These rims bolt right up without any problems BUT the stock spokes will not work and the excel rims require Buchanan or another bigger aftermarket spoke.
Also, the guys at Buchanan really helped a lot. Kenny Buchanan told me in the 1984 production run for Suzuki RMs that the supplier for the Suzuki hubs changed three times so there are three different variations in the spokes for this model RMs. I had to ship my hubs to Buchanan so they could identify which spokes my RM used. (You could just send your old spokes but I had already cut mine with an angle grinder.)
Here is a picture of start of the assembly of the rear wheel. Everything went smooth, no problems at all.
Here is the front.
Both rims finished up.
Made some more progress yesterday.
Bearings installed into the swingarm using a motion pro 20mm bearing driver. Suzuki manual called for bearing numbers to be facing outward and each bearing to be driven 7mm into the swingarm. Very easy install, just make sure that your inner swingarm and bearing are clean and lightly greased. My garage was so darn cold that I didn't need to put the bearings is a freezer.
I packed a heavy amount of BelRay salt water proof grease into the bearings then the seals, then the outer spacer before I installed the bushings, then the inner spacer.
Swingarm bolted up.
One more picture of the installed swingarm.
Installed brake pedal.
This is where we are so far on this build. The four suspension rod linkage bearings should be here today. I just ordered a set of Goldentyres, a GT216AA 80/100-21 "Razor Blade" for the front and a GT523X "Gummy" for the rear.
A lot of new parts are rolling into the garage.
18 and 21 Tubliss.
Goldentyre 216 Razor front tire with tubliss mounted on the new excel rim with Buchanan spokes. This was very easy to install.To the left is the unmounted rear Goldentyre Gummy GT523X, looks very wide doesn't it?
This is the rear gummy mounted up with the tubliss. This tire took a little more time to mount but it wasn't bad.I used armour all to coat the tubliss components and soapy water to seal the system. i bought two of these rear GT523x gummys, the other one is going on the gasser.
This is a VForce 3 Reed from a 1987 250/500 Quadracer, it is supposed to bolt straight into my RM cylinder. V3110-87. Also, this other part is a moose torque reed spacer. This should increase the bottom end and the cylinder has already been ported by Josh at ProCircuit and Josh milled the head to run on pump gas.
My stock Suzuki clutch basket is on the left and the Mitaka clutch basket is on the right. My stock basket was in very good shape but the stock basket cushions had play in them. The Mitaka basket is supposed to be stronger than stock. Disassembly of the stock basket was very simple, just use a drill bit to grind the head off the rivets holding the retaining plate, then pry the ring gear off with a screwdriver and push out the cushions by hand.
The stock cushions have a metal ring around each cushion.
The new cushions do not have the metal ring around the cushions. The new cushions fit very tightly on the ring gear. I applied a light amount of assembly lube on the cushions because that is what Rekluse reccomends per their clutch baskets, and the Mitaka instructions did not address this step. Then just press the ring gear onto the basket by hand making sure that everything is level and tight against the clutch basket. Unlike a CR 250, you do not need a press to remove and install the ring gear and you do not need to freeze or heat the ring gear for disassembly/assembly.
I tightened the supplied retaining plate bolts to 80 inch pounds which is about 6.6 foot pounds as required by the Mitaka instructions using blue loctite. I would recommend being very careful on this step because it would be very easy to overtighten these bolts and break them.
Rekluse recommends peening the retainer bolts but the Mitaka bolts do not pass completely through the basket so I could not peen them.
I just checked the fit of the VForce 3 reed with the ported cylinder and the Moose Torque Reed Spacer. Everything fits perfect.
I found an RM replacement shock and sent it to Drew at Works Enduro Rider. Drew is also going to install a set of Racetech Emulators in the forks. I had a big batch of OEM suzuki parts arrive and started getting them installed.
I pressed new bearings and seals into the upper full floater arm. Everything went together very nice and it was fairly easy to fit to the frame. Just make sure that you don't lose any needle bearings when install the long spacer and long pivot bolt.
This is what it looks like installed.That cad plated gold rod in the middle is actually a spacer and the pivot bolt goes through the center.
This is a shot from the side which show the pivot bolt and the new linkage arms bolted up with all new Oem Suzuki fasteners including new shock bolts.
View from the back, notice the new suzuki chain guard and bolt to the left.
New oem engine mount bolts and spacers.
New oem rear fender.
New oem front plate.
New oem fork boots
Looking nice, thanks for sharing!
I had bought a new Renthal Ultra lite rear sprocket part number 123U. Package showed that it fit all the RM 250s to 2008. Wrong. I spoke to the Renthal rep and he said that the 84,85,86 RM 250 ran a different rear wheel that used Renthal sprocket number 125U. The Sunstar application chart confirms this is correct.After some more research its appears that the 84,85,86 RM 250s used the same rear wheel as the RM 465 and RM 500. After 86, Suzuki went back to the std RM 250 wheel that they used until like 2008.
New oem side panel.
These are the big wide 98 RM 250 footpegs.
New tank strap.
New CDI cushion
New CDI strap
Tank with new oem fuel valve and cad bolts.
New bearing and seal installed on clutch shaft.New main bearings installed into the cases.
Clutch cover with the new ceramic coolant seal.
This is the water pump. I ordered new seals and bearings but upon closer inspection I am going to order a new impeller shaft. This shaft is too oxidized to use. This photo includes the new parts oriented on the old shaft that will be replaced.
This is the correct orientation of the ceramic seal for the water pump.
I started on the engine build this past weekend. Here are the cases with the new Suzuki oem bearings installed in each new oem case.
Shift side case.
Brake side case.
The cases went together without a problem.
Everything rotates smooth without any binding, shifts nice.
New Mitaka Alloy basket with oem Suzuki Ring Gear installed.Thrust washer to the right.
This is the spacer with the two piece bearing in place. This spacer is a little different than a gasser, which has a thrust washer behind the basket and a spacer and bearing inside the basket. This suzuki spacer is really a combination trust washer and spacer in one with a two piece bearing that fits onto the spacer. if you look closely at the photo you will see the bearing is a two piece design.
This is the main seal installed.If you look closely at the main seal you will see how the water pump bearing housing covers part of the main seal. You must install this main seal from the inside and before you install the main bearing. My Suzuki manual and my Clymer manual did not mention this procedure.
Back to the clutch.Basket mounted right up with thrust washer in place.
Nut and washer in place. New pushrod and ball.
New clutch pack installed with new oem springs.These clutches only have 5 fibers and 4 steels. On the later RMX models, these fiber plates interchange but the RMXs have 8 fibers and 7 steels.
Fitted the stator cover, new oem shifter and chain cover and oem case saver.
One shot of the engine without the chain cover and case saver installed. The new studs and dowels went in fine. Note, all four of these case studs are different and they are position specific.(check the suzuki fiche). I used assembly lube and I carefully torqued them in three steps with a 1/4 drive torque wrench. That is a new renthal sprocket.
One interesting issue. I had to order a new primary gear and crankshaft woodruff key. The 81 to 84 250 cranks interchange but the 83 and 84 have a different primary gear. (The 85 crank does NOT interchange because the rod is about 8mm longer.) My crank was a new 82 crank so I had to use a new primary gear but the water pump drive gear is the same.
I am waiting for some of engine parts to arrive and my suspension is inbound from Works Enduro Rider. I tried to get some other things knocked out.
I put two oem orings into my brake pedal and a oem new spring and oem spacer on the folding end.
In 1984 this is how you put the "whoa" on your runaway motocrosser.
Thats right, just a single wire, no casing nothing else. Just a single pin connecting it to the rear brake pedal.
I installed the radiator mounts, three on each side.
New rear Sprocket arrived.
Some medium strength lock tight.
Suzuki manual calls for 24 to 30 foot pounds, I set them at 26 foot pounds.
I snapped the new louvres onto the metal radiator guards.
The wristpin bearing finally arrived, I used an 18mm BuxTool to install the circlips, it took about 30 seconds to install each circlip. I coated the wristpin and bearing in two stroke oil. I installed a new oem Suzuki base gasket. I lightly wiped the sealing surfaces with lacquer thinner to remove debris and oil. I installed 4 new oem case studs, unlike my CR250, the rounded portion of the studs face up not down and I torqued them to 9 foot pounds. Also, these four case studs are all different with different part numbers and are position specific and two of the studs have dowels.
The cylinder was ported at Pro Circuit and the they milled the head to run on pump gas.This is a Wossner forged piston and it has a marking pointing to the exhaust side. I set the ring end gap at .4mm.
I installed a new oem suzuki head gasket. The must be installed with the 'EX" mark facing up and pointed to the exhaust side of the cylinder. I torqued all the cylinder studs to 9 foot pounds.
I am waiting on a few more parts before I can do my leak down test but I decided to install the motor, It went in very easy, the big open frame gives you plenty of access.all new oem motor mount bolts.
Very nice, coming along nicely.
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